Once upon a time some crazy ass like me decided it would be a great idea to create a trail that traverses the whole Santa Monica mountain range; well let me tell you this guy is a genius and my hero. As I slowly started getting into trail running 4 years ago, I did my first ultra run at the Bulldog 50K (which got me hooked), the Bulldog was also my first taste of the Backbone trail. As the years progressed I slowly started getting introduced to more parts of the Backbone trail; Sycamore Canyon, Overlook, Blue Canyon, Old Boney, Chamberlain and more. Naturally I began looking into the history behind the trail and discovered the trail traversed the entire Santa Monica Mountain range, and there was a race that runs the whole trail! No, I didn't sign up or run the Backbone Ultra but I did volunteer for the 2014 running of it at the Piuma Rd crossing as a way to fulfill my mandatory volunteer work for Western States 100. After seeing the ecstasy and pain on the runners faces I was hooked, I knew I wanted to run the entire Backbone Trail.
The Backbone trail starts at Will Rodgers park in Pacific Palisades and ends at the beach in Point Mugu, 68 miles long with 14700ft of elevation gain and 15200ft of elevation loss. The lowest point is sea level and the highest point is Sandstone Peak at 3,111ft (the highest peak in the Santa Monicas). In 2012 Mark Hartell set the fastest known time for the trail in 12:09 (someone can correct me if I am wrong on this). This trail was completed in 2010 and while it does partially pass through private land, it also traverses through 4 state parks and crosses through two counties line. Okay that's enough of the history lesson... but if you want more http://www.nps.gov/samo/planyourvisit/backbonetrail.htm
Its now or never, sometimes you just have to pull the trigger, get the ball rolling, no ones going to do it for me, I need to face fear in the eye and go for it! Too many people say they want to do things in their lives but never do what it takes to get it, don't be a "I wish I would have done that" or "someday I will" type person, set a goal and make it happen. I had been running every section of the Backbone trail (in 10-20 mile increments) until I got familiar with the entire trail. There are a lot of sections to make a wrong turn when combining several trails into one. When scouting, I ended up getting lost a few times and relied on GPS to find my way back. Once I felt familiar enough with the trail and confident I wouldn't get lost, it was time to set a date. This was no small feat considering I will be pacing Brett at the WS100, am training for AC100, about to leave on vacation, and am prepping to move, So June 13th was possibly my last opportunity for this year.
5:30am Will Rodgers park, Desirae (my crew woman extraordinaire) dropped me off. Despite some concerns about the weather leading up to that day,it ended up being cloudy, perfect running weather. So after some coffee, a Carbo Pro laced smoothie and VO2 max, I turned on my Spot Gen 3 and Fenix 3 watch and it was go time. I made my way up the first climb of the day Rodgers Rd, my legs felt fresh and even though I was running very conservatively, it felt like I was floating up the trail. I cruise along the ridge line with some single track, clearing out the spider webs (with my face) and getting soaked running through clouds. I made it to Temescal and the Hub (mile 7.5) in great time with a smile on my face. Talked with a lone mountain biker at the Hub about my journey for the day and all he could do was reply with "that's too much, that's just too much". A quick GU break, and onward past Eagle rock and down the first good descent of the day, Musch trail. After having a blast running down some killer switchbacks I made it into Topanga State Park where I rolled through some meadows along the Dead Horse trail. Dead Horse trailhead (off Topanga Canyon Rd) was my first major pit stop of the day, I took some video, downed some water and had another GU.
As I am crossing Topanga Canyon Rd. I smell burning rubber, sure enough there is a group of younger guys/gals standing around their Mustangs with fresh burnouts still smoking around them, to which I promptly replied "I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning". On to the second big climb of the day out of Topanga Canyon through Hondo and up to Saddle peak, this climb is a long one! Up tons of switch backs that meander their way through canopies of trees, adding in the foggy weather made this climb very mystical and somewhat pleasant. I was still feeling really good and fresh as I make it to the top of the climb, to Saddle peak and a radio broadcasting tower. I was making better time than expected so I decided to give Desirae a quick call to remind her I needed water at Piuma and that she needed to pick Keith up soon. I could hear the fear in Desirae's voice as she picked up the phone and couldn't hear me on the other end (a recurring issue ive been having with my phone, technology is great isn't it?), she calls back in panic as I am yelling into the other end of the phone with the bicyclist looking at me like I was insane. Finally I gave up and resorted to a text resolved our communication snafu, Uggh! Anyway, down Piuma descent I went! Normally I am a fan of downhill running, but not when its steep and strewn with rocks trying to trip you up, twist your ankle and kill your quads. At the bottom of the Piuma descent is the first time all day my legs start to feel a little fatigued, I knew it was time to push on and get to work. Another 2 miles through a new to me section to get to Tapia trailhead and await my wife and brother, 25 miles down..
I arrived at Tapia trailhead to find no one there, damn it where is my crew? 30 seconds later Des and Keith pull in! Yes, talk about timing, a site for sore legs! "Banana, banana!!", I am hungry like a minion (can you tell I have young kids?) as I eat a banana, suck down a chia squeeze, another GU, some Carbo Pro and refill my pack with water. Keith and I were off for the third big climb of the day, Mesa Peak Motorway to Corral Canyon, we have run this section together before and knew what laid ahead, it still didn't make it any easier. Its good to run with someone during a long run like this, the miles just seem to melt away, some good laughs, video footage and sweat! Across Newton Motorway, Latigo Canyon Rd and over the tunnel to Kanan Trailhead! Say what? we are already at Kanan? where is Desirae?! I tell Keith to pull out his phone to call her just as she pulls up, talk about timing AGAIN, Desirae is on it today! Hunger strikes again as I eat another Banana, Chia squeeze, some peanuts butter M&Ms and a bunch of almonds. Keith and I were off again as we made our way to Zuma Ridge. Keith was starting to feel the climbs through this section (I was also) so we walk for a bit up a couple small hills and all of a sudden Keith sees a downhill and comes ALIVE. I cannot express how good of downhill runner Keith is, he has improved leaps and bounds as a runner in the past year, I have a hard time keeping up with him on the downs! As we walk again up and out of the canyon to Encinal Canyon Rd. a sign says 1.1 miles to Mulholland and Keith's stop. I reminded him its all downhill to Mulholland, and naturally we push the pace running at a good clip all the way UPHILL to Mulholland. Good company bro, you made the miles disappear thanks again!
Asphalt! I was dreading this section the most when planning the run, not the four major climbs or the technical Piuma descent, but the asphalt. Yes the Backbone trail is suppose to be a through trail but because of disputes with property owner, the section of Etz Meloy is temporary closed to through hikers/bikers, an issue that the NPS is working on and hopefully resolving soon. The necessary detour involves running down Mulholland Hwy and up Little Sycamore Canyon Rd. to where the trail meets up again at Yerba Buena. Little Sycamore Canyon was steep and had very little shoulder, so needless to say it was a little sketchy, but I just grinded up the road very carefully and before I knew it I was at the trailhead for Yerba Buena. Yerba Buena was a 4 mile section I had never run before, what seemed like all gradual uphill was probably more rolling hills. My phone had just died before this section so I had to rely on the research I did prior and a little intuition but, there were a few spots where I thought I was lost. I was frustrated, tired and definitely at a low point making my way to Mishe Mokwa trailhead to an awaiting Desirae, Randy and Brett. I felt like I had run this section really slow and was behind schedule when I arrived at the trailhead, but low and behold there was my crew and pacers waiting for me, turns out they arrived less than a minute before got there, great timing yet again.
After devouring half a burrito, a GU and VO2 max, Off we went, two great pacers in tow, well what do you know, up the forth big climb, oh no! We made on our way up to Sandstone Peak, the highest peak in the Santa Monica's (3,111ft). I was still feeling pretty beat up at this point so the climb up was more of a power hike/run when I can, forward momentum. This is a popular area, with a couple miles round trip to some amazing views, so I saw more people in this two mile stretch than I had seen all day. What's even more exciting, I also got to see the sun for the first time that day, at 3pm. The views were just fantastic, well worth the sun heating me up to a boil. We started making our way back down the other side of Sandstone and people started to disappear again, my pace started to pick back up and I started to feel better (magic burrito or just good company?). What goes up must come down; and the descent down Chamberlain and Blue Canyon to Big Sycamore Canyon was looooong. I was gingerly making my way down and I made up good time here, stopping only once to let Brett pee into Butt Crack Rock (yes you read that right). Big Sycamore Canyon is the flattest two mile stretch of the entire run, Randy and Brett pulled me along at a great clip or what seemed like a fast pace after 58 miles anyways.
Last hill! Yes, I can "smell the barn" I knew I was going to finish it now, a smile comes across my face with this realization. The last climb up to the Overlook trail is about half the climb as the other hills but feels like Mt. Everest at this point. We ran for a while then hike for awhile, rinse and repeat till we made it to the Overlook trail. We ran along the Overlook trail for awhile and it seems to take longer than I thought to get to the Ray Miller trail. After second guessing myself, we finally made it to the Ray Miller trailhead. About 3 miles down buttery smooth single track to the finish is all that's left, an adrenaline surge comes across me and I just flew down the trail. I knew I wanted to finish strong but wow I felt good. The Ray Miller trail is fantastic, its smooth single track with amazing views of the ocean, what a way to finish a through run of the Backbone. I come around the last corner to see Desirae and Connor waiting for me, touch the sign post and turn off my watch at 6:04 PM for a elapsed time of 12:25:15!
My immediate run recovery strategy was beer and a soak in the Pacific ocean. As Des, Brett, Randy, Connor and I walk across the PCH to the beach we see Marie Antoinette next to a giant birthday cake!? Running 68 miles makes me hallucinate..(seriously you cant make this shit up!) We continued the celebration at Neptunes Net with great food, company and more beer.
None of this bucket list run of mine could have happened without my most wonderful wife Desirae chasing me around all day to restock me with food and water, love you tons! I also wanted to thank Keith, Randy and Brett for sharing in this experience with me and prodding my ass along, you guys helped me tremendously! A quick shout out to David Chan, Howard Cohen and Jimmy Dean Freeman for their great advice and helpful hints, thanks for taking your time to answer my questions. Glad its over and sad its done, on to the next adventure.. Till then a beer to celebrate and a trail to run...
